Tussar Silk is alternatively referred as Kosa Silk. It is an exquisite thread generated from a yellowish-brown moth that has wide wings. These wings are true wonders as these are embellished with circular markings that behave like mirrors. The threads are combination of Antheria Paphia, Antheria Milita, and Antheria Proylei that impart the valuable golden color to the products. This variety of silk products is obtained at lesser prices. This is due to the fact that tussar silk worms are not fed on mulberry leaves.
Tussar silk weaving is a tribal rural art practiced mainly in Jharkhand, India. The weaving from cocoons is mainly done by women of tribal and rural areas. These women are traditionally trained in such weaving mechanism. The average wages for weaving a full sari is between INR 1500-2500 depending on the quality.
Tussar silk has a number of varieties called Katia, Ghhichha and Thigh reeled and machine reeled. Further experiments by the Tussar sari retailers have led to the growth of two other distinct varieties called Tussar Ghichha and Mulberry Ghiccha.
Tussar is more textured than other varieties of silk threads. Tussar fabrics are cooler than other varieties of silk. The presence of pores has made them more breathable. Thus these threads offer more comfort during summer season and tropical countries.
Tussar is also referred as wild silk as the variety is originated from the forest. This variety of silk is collected after cocoons are boiled in hot water or dried under glaring sun when the fiber threads reeled in. Bhagalpur Tussar is known as non-violent Tussar. The waiting period before commencing weaving is about 15 days; within this time, silkworms leave the cocoons unharmed. Then the cocoons are put in boiling water.
This type of silk thread has two outstanding qualities. The first one is the good weave finish and the other is brilliant choice of colors that have helped them become suitable to adapt to any traditional weaving style. Tussar sari retailers in Kolkata has made experiments with various chemical dyes that have proved beneficial in improvement of the range of color and mixes.
Absolute good quality of the yarn offer strength and durability to the weave.